"Tortilla española is everything we love about Spanish cooking—lusty, elemental, assuredly simple. Traditionally this Iberian omelet gets its heft from thin-sliced potatoes, but in the cookbook Cocinar En Casa (El Bulli, 2003), the chef Ferran Adrià proposes an audacious update. Eschewing the dirty work of peeling, slicing, and frying the potato, Adrià substitutes a generous handful of store-bought thick-cut potato chips, which soften to just the right tenderness thanks to a soak in the beaten egg before the omelet is cooked. Innovative as this approach may be, the result is absolutely canonical...."