The House macaroni and cheese

"Patina, that Melrose Avenue institution, has made one with hand-rolled macaroni and mascarpone cheese. Ammo, a Hollywood spot where you're likely to overhear conversations about personal trainers, does a version with four cheeses and wild mushrooms. During truffle season, Melisse in Santa Monica ......"

INGREDIENTS
2 3/4 cups milk
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 3/4 cups grated extra-sharp raw goat's milk Cheddar
1 1/4 cups shredded Fontina
2 cups grated Gruyere
1/2 pound large pasta shells
1 1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs or panko
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