"Why this recipe works:To make a brown soda bread with good wheaty flavor but not a gummy, dense texture, we started by finding the right ratio of whole-wheat to all-purpose flour. Toasted wheat germ bumps up the sweet, nutty flavor of the whole wheat and adds texture. Baking powder, in addition to the traditional baking soda, guarantees a hearty—not heavy—loaf. A touch of sugar and a few tablespoons of butter keep our bread wholesome but not health-foody, and brushing a portion of the melted butter on the loaf after baking gives it a rich crust...."